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With so many selections, how do you pick the one that is best for you? First off, let's go over self defense basics.
Where?
These situations mainly occur at 21 feet or less, usually much less. Department of Justice annual reports state that 90% of police shootings happen at this range or less. A study of shootings over 100 years in New York City has more than 90% at 10 feet or less. The DOJ study includes figures from sheriff's departments, highway troopers, and Border Patrol. Encounters by these agencies can occur at longer ranges (more than 21 feet but less than 25 yards), so they will skew the average range figure a bit.
When?
In the "when" category, the only common denominator was that light conditions were less than adequate. In our research, we found there was a gap in the visibility of most sights on handguns. Plain black sights rely on having sufficient ambient light to see them against a contrasting background. Such target sights are black and meant to be aligned against the white of the target paper and held in reference below the round bull of the target. That's fine until the background becomes blue, red, plaid, etc. - clothing, and then the sight blends to the point where it might as well be invisible. Contrasting inserts help but need to be bigger to be readily seen. Night sights were a big help in low-light to no-light situations. But since the tritium vials are a weak light source, it only takes a little ambient light to overpower them, leaving you unable to see them in the half-light to low-light realm adequately. And because tritium is typically installed in the same place where a contrasting color insert might be, they remove the ambient light reflector that you might have used in this half-to-low light range.
What happens that is so different?
If static pieces of cardboard attacked people, then we wouldn't build our sights as we have. The same can be said if all shooting situations gave you a walk-through beforehand and everybody involved was marked whether they were SHOOT or NO-SHOOT people. But they don't, so you'll have to make the hard decisions in the moment and on the fly. What you'll need is information. Information like body language, intent in the eyes, movement of the hands, and/or are there threats from other directions? This means that your eyes will be bouncing all over everywhere except on your sights. If deadly force is required, you will need sights, and the time it takes for your eye to shift back to find them and get them on target is critical. Your body's stress reactions are working against you quickly finding your sights. Look at police qualifying scores versus the percentage of rounds that hit in actual gunfights, and you'll find proof that you can easily miss a human-sized object at 3 feet. Most LE Agencies require that an officer's qualifying score be at least 70% of the total, while the average number of rounds that impact is less than 15% of those fired. If this isn't a clear indication that what works well on a target range under target conditions is next to useless under tactical conditions, I don't know what is.
What we offer.
Shallow "V" express rear notch. This eliminates the billboard on each side of a standard notch rear sight. You have better access to the front sight, and it is impossible to hide the front sight behind the rear sight. The "V" is not a bull's-eye sight; you will not get the same tiny groups you can get with such sights. You will get plenty of tactical accuracy, and only take a little while to find and align the sights. The vertical bar in our sight is easy to distinguish from the front dot, eliminating any confusion about which dot is the front sight.
DXT2 Big Dot. The bigger sight is easier for your eye to pick up. Easier to see when your focus is out beyond the front sight, locked on the possible threat. The large orange or yellow area absorbs ambient light to be visible way down into the extreme low-light range. At that point, the tritium vial in the center of the dot comes into play and begins to take over the sight reference giving you a positive front sight reference into the no-light spectrum.
A better Point of Aim (POA) / Point of Impact (POI) system. When your eye shifts focus, it will lock onto the brightest thing first. The brightest part of the dot is the center. Placing that over the desired point of impact is a natural reaction. From 15 yards and in, our POA/POI is the center of the dot. As the range increases and you have more time for a refined sight picture, we take advantage of your pistol's ballistics. Bullets start below the line of sight, and the barrel angle is such that they rise to the line of sight. By having the under 15 yards POA/POI at the center of our dot, as the range increases to 25 yards, the bullet's flight will take it to near the top edge of the front sight. Now you have the best of both worlds. A stress sight picture that is quick and easy to find and index on the target and a more precise POA/POI when you need it at longer ranges.
The DXT2 Standard Dot. Standard dots are ideal for more precise shooting and are good options for shooting are farther distances. Competitive shooters prefer the standard dot for sport, as many stages will run some targets out to 50 yards.
It depends...Unfortunately, we cannot provide a definitive answer. The wide range of slide cut out depths, mounting plates, and red dot combinations makes it impossible for us to test every possibility. However, if your factory sights are close to co-witnessing, our sights are likely to do the same. Please note that with suppressor-height sights, we list some specific red dots they lower 1/3 co-witness with.
R3D, R3D 2.0, F8, Minimalist sights — Yes go for it!
DXT2, DXW2, DXT, DXW sights — We recommend had tools over using a sight pusher for these models.
View Sight Installation Tools
There are a lot of good options, but here are a few things that we find especially useful:
LE/Military Personnel: LE/MIL Discount available!
Dovetails are the primary method of installing sights on handguns and one of the more common ways rifle sights are installed...
A dovetail is an angled cut (female dovetail) into which a similarly shaped and sized piece (male dovetail) fits into. The fit is an “interference” type fit. Simply put it is a 1.001 inch peg in a 1 inch hole.
Any mass manufactured part will have minor variations of dimensions. These variations are called “tolerances” and have upper and lower limits. While today’s computer controlled machining centers can produce parts with very small tolerances, there are still minor variations that must be adjusted for. Many of our sights are made on the large end of the tolerance range to allow them to be fitted to the particular dovetail on your pistol or rifle.
Dovetail specifications are as follows:
Theoretical point to point: This is the large dimension of the dovetail taken at where the angled points meet the bottom of the dovetail. The reason they are referred to as “theoretical” is that such fine points are difficult to achieve and easily roll off (male) or are not cut due to wear of the cutter points (female). The male portion of the dovetail is normally made with this point having a chamfered edge to allow it to more easily fit the dovetail cut. That is why if you measure this portion of a dovetail you come up with a dimension that is smaller than what the specification list.
Angle: This angle is measured at one of the points of the dovetail. The range is anywhere from 45 to 75 degrees. Some of the more common angles are 60, 65, and 75 degrees.
Depth of dovetail cut: This depth which is measured in thousandths must be controlled due to the over hang of the sight body (front and rear) over the dovetail section. Cut to shallow and a gap between the bottom of the sight and the barrel/slide/frame appears which is not cosmetically pleasing. Cut to deep and you will have to relieve the overhung portion of the sight so it will fit into the dovetail. Sometimes the front sight will snap of the dovetail section due to the weakening of the sight and the additional stress created by this situation.
Taper: Old style dovetails were cut on a tapered angle so that one side was larger than the other. This allowed for easier fitting unless the sight needed to be moved back out of the dovetail, which could leave it with a too loose fit.
As originally designed the AR-15/M-16 sight system adjusts for windage at the rear assembly and for elevation in the front to zero the rifle to the individual shooter...
To obtain the ballistic adjustment needed for longer range shooting the original rear sight had one aperture higher than the other. While this system would not give the shooter an exact elevation adjustment for a specific range, it would under battle conditions put the bullet close enough for government work so to speak.
The new A2 rifles and carbines employ a rear sight system that includes a range cam to allow the shooter to more precisely adjust the ballistic arc to their needs. This system eliminated the need for an elevation shift between the large close quarters aperture and the smaller long-range aperture. However the aperture shift is still with us today.
Comparing some of the rear sights available today there appears to be 3 variations available. The 1st style (and oldest) has a .014 offset. This gives a 2.52 inch shift in point of impact at 100 yards between the two apertures. The 2nd style has a .017 offset, which shifts point of impact 3.06 inches at 100 yards. The 3rd style has a .024 offset giving a 4.36 inch shift in P.O.I.
All of the points of impact shifts shown above are for the standard barrel AR-15/M-16 that has a sight radius of 20 inches. The shorter sight radius (14.5 inches) of the M4 carbine and weapons of similar configuration increase the amount of point of impact shift. The shifts for these shorter sight radius weapons are 3.48, 4.25, 5.96 inches respectively.
The only reason for the various shifts would be for changes in the ammunition used by the military over the course of this weapons employment.
Most people are completely unaware of this elevation change that occurs when the aperture is shifted from one to the other. They just figure that their rifle is doing something strange.
Our aperture sight for this weapon has both the large and small apertures on the same plane so there is no difference in the point of impact when you shift from one to the other. We have also offset one of the apertures by .007 to make up for the sideways movement of the aperture on the windage screw as it pivots.
By installing our same plane rear aperture you now can sight in your rifle using the smaller aperture and shift back and forth between the two apertures as your light and range needs change without having to do mental gymnastics to know where your bullets impact will be.
The original round front sight of the AR-15/M-16 rifle was a round post that used one of 5 detent notches for elevation...
The thread pitch of the screw is such that a 1/5th rotation of the post moved point of impact approximately 1 inch at 100 yards.
When the round post was changed out in favor of a square post the number of detent notches was correspondingly reduced to 4. The fact that the reduced number of notches increased the amount of movement from 1 to 1.25 was more than compensated by the better front sight presentation.
Our 24/7 Stripe or Dot front sights require a full 360-degree rotation to present the face correctly to the shooter. This translates to a 5 or 7-inch change in point of impact per revolution, depending whether you have a standard or short barrel configuration sight radius. At first this may appear to cause problems but in reality that will not be the case. If you are 5 inches from desired point of impact then the new setting will bring you exactly on line. The furthest out you will be is half of the sight shift, meaning 2.5 to 3.5 inches.
The majority of the rifles and carbines made today have the new A2 style rear sight assembly. The range cam can be disengaged from the elevation mechanism so the 1-minute elevation per click may be employed to correct any remaining problems. The Allen screw to do this can be accessed through that large hole in the rear sight assembly that is just in front of the aperture (now you know what the heck that hole is for).Even without this ability the fact that the groups most of these rifles generate at this distance are in the 2 to 3 M.O.A. size will allow you to place the zero somewhere between the center and the top edge of the dot at 40 yards.
You must also consider the fact that 100 +yard shots are at the far end of the spectrum in which these rifles are employed by most people and Law Enforcement personnel. When used as a patrol rifle by Law Enforcement personnel it is to supplement their handgun (ranges contact to 15 yards) or extend their zone beyond that realm (25-75 yards). At 50 yards the problem of sight shift is halved and at 25 yards it is now back in the 1.25” (1.75” for shorties) inch per revolution range.
Recommended sight in range is 40 yards.
With Dot type front sights, adjust so that the center of the dot is as near the point of impact as possible. As the range increases the bullet’s arc will cause it to rise to near the top edge of the dot at the 120 to 150-yard point (depending on ammunition). Beyond that point the bullet’s arc will bring it back down to center of the dot at approximately 250 yards.
The sight line used by the Ghost Ring Aperture is generally taller than the one used by the barrel-mounted sights...
A taller front must be used so point of impact stays the same.
In 2019, XS removed many test posts from our front and rear sight sets. If you'd like one, please contact us and we'll be happy to send it!
Variations from this standard can occur either due to manufacturing tolerances or more commonly ammo/shooter variations. The included test posts allow you to verify that the front sight will work for your rifle, or what height will work for your particular rifle/ammo/shooter combination.
These plastic test posts should be used BEFORE the metal sight is installed. The shorter one duplicates the height of the metal front sight and is the one you should use first.
The factory setting on our rear sight should be 3 full turns (360 degrees) up from bottoming out the aperture. The rifle should sight in within 3 full turns up or 2 full turns down from this factory setting position.
If you have to adjust the rear sight more than 3 full turns up from this position, then a shorter front sight is needed. Return the sight to the factory setting and then remove one segment from the top of the test post and re-shoot. Each segment represents a sight height we make and will shift point of impact 5-8 inches at 100 yards depending of your sight radius. Remove segments as needed until you can zero the rifle within the specified sight adjustment range.
If you have adjusted the aperture 2 full turns down and the point of impact is still high then a taller front is required. Reset the sight and install the taller test post. Remove segments as needed to bring point of impact up to where the sight will adjust within the recommended range.
Once the correct height has been determined contact us and we will exchange the unfitted front sight for one of the proper height. Our toll free number is 1-888-744-4880.
To sight in your Ghost Ring Aperture sight you should know the following...
The stem of the aperture is threaded, and by turning the aperture ½ revolution you will move point of impact approximately 1 inch at 100 yards.
The windage screws will shift point of impact approximately 1 inch at 100 yards per ¼ revolution.
Elevation Example: At 100 yards and the bullet impact is 4 inches low. Loosen one of the windage screws a full turn to allow the aperture to then be turned 4 half turns up (counter-clockwise). Then re-tighten the same windage screw. Remember you always move the rear sight in the same direction you wish the bullet impact to go. This will put you within a ½ inch of the desired point of impact.
Windage Example: This same rifle is 3 inches off to the right at 100 yards. Loosen the left windage screw ¾ of a turn and tighten the right windage screw to move the aperture and the group to the left.
NOTE: Rear sights are always moved in the direction you wish the bullet impact to go. If you raise the aperture the impact will come up.
Front sights are moved in the opposite direction. To raise the point of impact the front sight must be lower.
Our sight set front and rear selections are made after we have actually shot that particular rifle at the range and verified the zero...
The set then will work for more than 90% of the people/rifle combinations out there. If you are having trouble sighting in your sight set, while it might be a mechanical problem it might also be how you are trying to use the sights that is the source of the problem. Here is a list of common shooter errors.
It is called a “Ghost Ring Aperture” sight because the rear aperture is supposed to blur to the point that it is a ghost image in your eye. The aperture itself is not important. The beam of light coming through it is what your eye acts on.
Do Not Try To Center The Front Sight In The Aperture!!!! Your eye is attracted to bright light. The brightest portion of the beam of light coming through the aperture is the very center. You should concentrate your focus on the tip of the front sight and it’s relationship to the target. If you try to center the front sight you will be everywhere but the center. Keep your eye on the tip of the front sight and the target and let nature do the rest.
I am shooting way high and the sight is bottomed out!! This normally occurs with shooters who have used regular aperture sights before but not Ghost Ring style sights. Most aperture sights have disc in them with a small sight hole through it. The hole is so small that sometimes target shooters will fire on the wrong target because they can see only the bull’s-eye of the target. A Ghost Ring Aperture gives you a wide field of view. You will see all the front sight, some of the ramp or barrel and a whole lot more. This confounds some shooters who try to see just the blade of the front sight. Doing this sets the front sight low in the aperture and then when they place the tip of the front sight on target it causes the bullet impact to be way high. Once again concentrate on the tip of the front sight and don’t worry about what else you see in the aperture unless it is the eight point buck standing just to the left of the six point you are aiming at!
Lastly, sometimes there are shooter/ammo/range/gun combinations that require a different front sight than comes in the set. If that is the case use the test post provided or call toll free 1-888-744-4880 and ask for some test posts to be sent to you. Using them you can determine what is the correct sight height for your situation.
Welcome to XS Sights Science 101...
Tritium is a trace element naturally present in the air your breathe. Tritium is hydrogen plus two extra neutrons. Hydrogen as most people know has 1 electron, 1 proton, and no neutrons. By adding 2 neutrons to basic hydrogen you create Hydrogen3 or Tritium. The molecular structure is unstable and decays. In this decay process it throws off Beta Particles. When these Beta Particles collide with the phosphor coating on the inside of the glass tube the phosphor glows.
The term “half-life” refers to this decay process and how long the tritium vial will glow. The half-life time is how long it takes for the tritium to be half as bright as it was when new. After that point the speed of decay increases the vial brightness dies.
The color of the Tritium vial depends on the material used to coat the inside of the tube. Green Tritium vials are the brightest of all the Tritium colors. Even so they are rather weak light sources. Surprisingly small amounts of ambient light will overpower the Tritium creating a usage gap at the half to low light point of light levels. That is one of the reasons we have such a large white dot. The dot reflects any ambient light present so you have full sighting ability under any light conditions.
We chose a bar and a dot because having three green Tritium fireflies out in front of you can slow your response while you decide which of them is the front sight.
Some companies try to solve this dilemma by using a different color Tritium for the front and rear sight. While this helps some, it creates addition difficulties since all the other Tritium colors are less bright than the green. We retain the brightest Tritium color and by utilizing a vertical bar for the rear, the front sight is readily discernable from the rear so there is no loss of time in indexing the sights on the target.
Read our What is Tritium blog!
The short answer is we can't always have tritium in the rear sight of some sights because of size issues...
The tritium vials not only have to have a certain size, but also must have a certain amount of material around them. These vials are regulated by the Nuclear Regulatory Commission and they set the guidelines. The size of these lamps is the major factor in determining if sights can house a tritium lamp.
Because we as sight makers have to live with the sight cuts that are on each different make & model, we often have to make choices. In many cases if we make a rear sight tall enough to house a tritium vial, we would also have to make the front sight so tall that it would create holster fit issues. We never thought it was smart engineering to build defensive carry sights that then wouldn't allow you to use common carry holsters. If shorter lamps become available to us, then we would offer rear sights with tritium.
That however does not mean you have a useless rear sight. You have to remember one of the big reasons why we as a sight maker exist, and that is that a big chunk of gun uses occur at mid to low light levels. Under these conditions it is too bright to see the tritium very well yet it is too dark to see a plain black blade. The original big dot reflects the ambient light so you can see something & use it for your front sight index. This applies not only to the front sight but the rear sight as well.
Something that goes unrecognized is the simple fact that as light levels drop, so does the distance you can see to ID & engage a threat. At light levels where you can no longer see just the white stripe, you are down to mere feet. At theses distances a rear sight index is fairly redundant and all you should be doing is placing the front sight COM (center of mass) and not jerking the trigger.
Tritium in the rear sight is nice if you can get it, but it is NOT an absolute must have to have a very effective set of fighting sights.
Sorry, this one isn't going to happen...
In our developmental testing, we found that the tiny rear sight notch just didn't provide enough of a rear sight reference to allow a Big Dot to work properly. Our test shooters were reporting that at least half of them couldn't achieve decent accuracy with the Big Dot prototypes on the LCR which was very odd since these shooters were getting great results on some S&W snub nose "J" frame projects we were working on a the same time. In checking over the LCRs we found nothing wrong with them, but that the rear sight notch in the frame was shallower than the rear sight found on the S&W "J"s. It provided more than enough reference to allow a Standard Dot to work well, just not the Big Dot. There isn't an easy way to improve the rear notch so we are left only being able to offer the Standard Dot. While it hasn't got the speed or acquisition that the Big Dot has, it is still a huge improvement over the factory plain black blade.
Possibly...
The AE Scout Mount will fit if 2 criteria are met.
First, the center of the rear sight dovetail slot must be within a certain range of the barrel receiver junction line. The mount will fit if the center is within a range of 3.8" to 4.0" of that junction.
Second, you must be willing to have the 2 required screw holes (#6-48) drilled & tapped into the front receiver bridge in the manner the AE models are drilled. The mount itself is used as a layout template for actual screw hole locations.
If these are met, then you can install our mount on your rifle.
In early 2017, XS removed the delrin punch our sight kits. As more manufacturers are going to hydraulic presses to install factory sights, the delrin punch became an insufficient tool to remove the factory sights. As customers used it less and less, we removed the delrin punches and instead added a free shipping option. We still happily include the Glock front sight tool, a hex wrench, and threadlocker to the sets that need them.
Click the link to purchase a delrin punch.